Oil pressure gauge kit

Oil pressure gauge kit
Oil pressure gauge kit Oil pressure gauge kit Oil pressure gauge kit Oil pressure gauge kit
Product Code: Oil pressure gauge kit
Availability: 1
Price: C$89.95
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Oil pressure gauge kit.  Kit includes the following:

Oil pressure gauge, mechanical, EQUUS 7244
Nipple, brass, oil pressure gauge connection, 1/8"x 3"
Elbow, brass, oil pressure gauge connection, 1/8"x 90 degree
T, brass, oil pressure gauge connection, 1/8"x 1/8"x 1/8"
Tubing, air brake, oil pressure gauge connection, 4245-0220-0100, 20 ft. w/protective covering for where this hose will pass close to the LH rear exhaust header.
Oil Pressure gauge installation:

At the bottom rear of the vehicle, remove the left hand push rod tube cover.  Remove the wire to the oil pressure sender between the two middle push rod tubes.  Remove the oil pressure sender, have something ready to collect oil as it will drip out for a bit.  Insert the 2” brass nipple and 90 degree brass elbow into the port where you removed the oil pressure switch.  Do not put any type of sealant on any of the threads as the OEM oil pressure switch which you will re-install later needs a clean ground connection to work.  All the brass fittings have tapered threads therefor do not require sealant.  Be careful to not over tighten any of the brass connectors as they break easily.  Snug is good as they will seal due to the threads being tapered.  Adjust the 90 degree elbow fitting to point downwards. Install the brass T-fitting to the end of the 90 degree elbow so that one port is facing towards the front of the engine and the other to the rear.  When tightening the 90 degree elbow and T-fitting support the nipple so that you do not put pressure on it and break it off.  Install the OEM oil pressure switch in the front port, do not worry about the loose aluminum washer on the sender, the sender will seal if you tighten it properly.  Attache the wire you removed earlier to the sender.  Install the oil line connector that you will find two of in the oil pressure gauge box, in the other port, be careful to not loose the olive.  In the engine compartment, take the oil pressure line and run it over the engine case on the left hand side, starting near the fire wall, so that is stays as close to the engine case as possible, feed it through to the rear of the engine so that it will come down around the rear of the left hand cylinder head and near the exhaust pipe to get to the port of the brass T fitting where you will eventually connect it.  Before making that connection, take the short piece of fuel hose provided and slip it over the oil pressure tubing and adjust it so that it will protect the tubing from the heat of the head and exhaust pipe that it comes very close to. Now connect the oil pressure tubing to the port by passing it through the retaining nut, then the olive and insert the tubing into the port as far as you can push it in then secure it by tightening the nut on the olive, just tight enough to squeeze the olive onto the tubing, if it leaks here after testing, then tighten until the leak stops.  Now adjust the tubing where it runs over the head and engine case so that it is not touching the exhaust pipe.  Now run the other end of the tubing up and over the transmission so that it comes down on the right side and joins up with the long coolant pipes.  Run the tubing to the front of the vehicle to the spare tire area following the coolant pipes.  You will need to use a hard wire fish to get the tubing through the fuel tank area,  There are some tie wraps on the coolant pipes, run that line under them and in-between the two pipes so that the tubing will be protected, add more tie wraps as needed.  At the front of the vehicle, remove the spare tire. Inside the cab, remove the lower cover for the front heater vent, behind the shifter.  On the floor area there you will find an large rubber grommet where hoses and wires pass through, make a new hole with a 1/4” drill bit in that rubber grommet to the left of all the other hoses and wires, then bring in the oil pressure tube into the cab through that hole.  Mount the gauge wherever you like and run the tubing to the gauge cutting off any excess tubing and make the connection the same way you did at the rear using the second of the two connectors provided in the gauge box. Connect the wires for the gauge light; connect the positive wire of the light to the closest blue & grey wire you can find, the small blue & grey wires under the dash are the feed wires to all the dash lights.  Connect the negative wire from the light to the closest grounding point you can find.  Start the engine and let it idle, remove the connection at the oil pressure gauge, have some rags handy to collect oil, once only oil is coming out of the tubing end, reconnect the tube to the gauge and tighten, the gauge should now be operating.  Go to the back underneath and check for any leaks, tighten any connections that are leaking.  After your satisfied there are no leaks, stop the engine and make sure the tubing is secure and protected well from front to back.  Replace the spare tire, push rod tube cover, and heater vent cover. That’s it, enjoy your new oil pressure gauge.  Note that the oil pressure on a new cold engine will be around 5psi at idle and 80psi at 4000 rpm.  At hot, over 1 hour running, idle pressure should be about 3 psi and 40psi at 4000 rpm.  When oil pressure readings at hot, over 1 hour running, are below 1psi at idle and below 15psi at 4000 rpm the crank bearings are worn out sufficiently to warrant a rebuild ASAP.

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